Almora

Date: June 3, 2010
Name: Almora
Address: Moshav Even Sapir

Professional food journalists make sure to jot things down in a small pad. When we go on our foodventures, D always writes an organized entry with the place, prices and other blog-worthy details. Alas, this pad was lost and recently re-surfaced, like money in last year's winter coat.

This was a special day - the next day, D would board an airplane heading to the United States for graduate school. Almora is located in Even Sapir, a small moshav just outside Jerusalem. Technically "out of town," we decided to make a day out of it, and include a visit to a small spring called Ein Ashkaf. We invited M, our co-adventuring friend and sometime driver, to join us. We began by dipping our feet in the water before heading out for lunch.

Feet. Water. 'Nuf said.

We arrived mid-afternoon, and sat inside to escape the heat. But the pop music from the radio didn't sit well, so we moved outside to enjoy the beautiful day from beneath the grape-vine covered porch.The tables had colorful tablecloths and the view of the Jerusalem hills was gorgeous (as usual). We were the only people there.

After a few minutes, the owner/chef/waiter approached our table with menus, recommendations, and plenty of chit-chat. We ended up ordering samosas which were OK, and crispy wada which was good. The bahargia was, as D described it, "eh" (read: not so exciting). The soy was watery and the vegetable dossa lacked peasauce. Appitizers cost 50 NIS and thali cost 47 NIS. Everything (besides the view) was hovered right beneath mediocre. After the meal, R and M ordered the traditional chai. Unfortunately it was not as sweet as we would have liked, but still quite good.

Chai is for Lovers

Although the food was not as fabulous as expected, the atmosphere was very nice and welcoming and we felt like we were being hosted. The portions were generous and the owner/chef/waiter sat with us and told us about the place. Almora is open only when he's in the country. For the past ten years, he's traveled to India twice a year, where he studies and teaches Indian philosophy. Upon his return, Almora opens his doors. His lease on the structure was coming to an end, and he wasn't sure whether he'd re-sign the lease.

Since then, Almora has indeed closed. Culinary-wise, perhaps not a big loss. But we would recommend it to anyone looking for a relaxed eating experience with a good view (and interesting conversation with the owner about anything in the world, east or west.). In fact, the restaurant seemed like a lovely place for weddings (not that we're looking...). We're glad we had a chance to eat there, and will continue hunting down Indian food world-wide!

Samosas for the 99%

Name: Himalayan Heritage
Address: 2305 18th St. NW, Adams Morgan, Washington, DC

The last two months took me from busy to busier as I became involved in OccupyDC. While life as the 99 percent most definitely isn't honey, there are some awesome kickbacks. First, I've met amazing people. Second, I had fascinating and (mostly) positive mind-blowing conversations with people from all walks of life. Third, I got to experience DC nightlife (read: meetings at the 24/7 McDonalds).

Meetings typically ran until midnight, after which I'd head home with my committee friends. Although we live in the same neighborhood, there's enough of a distance between our homes that we could either take separate buses/bike, or extend our time together by walking (not barefoot, sans snow) home (uphill, one way).

One night we picked up Indian take-out from Himalayan Heritage. I wasn't particularly hungry and had eaten Indian the day before. Nonetheless, I'm always ready for samosas and always excited for an opportunity to blog.

The samosas were delicous. The dough was a bit thick, but it was quite crispy and the filling was properly seasoned with cumin and coriander seeds. It was too late, and I was too tired to remember much more. But I'd definitely eat a Himalayan Heritage samosa again!

Thumbs up from DecCom!

Heritage India

Date: November 9, 2011

Name: Heritage India
Address: 1337 Connecticut Ave, Washington, DC

America is the land of sales. Except nowadays, instead of hunting through racks of clothing, we receive emails from Groupon and Living Social. These companies exist solely to mediate between consumers and vendors, who are willing to trade quantity of clients for quantity of cash flow. After listening to this Planet Money podcast a while ago, I decided that I wouldn't participate in this mass squeezing any longer, unless it were for a place/service I'd genuinely consider frequenting again. In other words, gateway groupons.

As has been noted here before, these deals are a great way to taste the local Indian fare. Thus, last spring I purchased a Groupon for Heritage India ($12 for $25 of food), which is located just south of DC's hopping Dupont Circle. As its expiration date approached, I finally went for lunch.

The lunch crowd doesn't exactly reflect the beautiful decor

The restaurant's front is quite dull. But step inside, and you'll be transported to India. The walls are covered with Indian art and family photographs. The columns are painted, there's a fountain at the entrance, and a large Buddha sits in the back overlooking the diners. The lunch buffet was open ($11.95), but my groupon limited me to the menu. I chose the vegetarian Begumi Platter ($20.95) and the vegetarian samosa (2 for $4.95).

Wave Hello to Buddha!

Samosas are my litmus test, and these passed with flying colors. Although the dough was a bit thick, it was delicious and the filling was amazing. The potatoes were finely cut, the coriander and cumin seeds exploded with flavor, the sauce was tangy and amazing. The samosas were beautifully presented on a plate alongside drizzlings of two chutneys (tamarind and yogurt). Just as I made a mental note about the small quantity of these, the head waiter came over and offered to bring more. With each bite, my hopes for the rest of the meals soared.

Yum. Simply Yum.

After wiping my plate clean, I was served lunch. The meal included four curries, rice, raita and a small salad. The first curry was tomato based curry with cheese cubes. This was flat-out disappointing. The curry itself tasted exactly (and I mean exactly) like Campbell's tomato soup (with a dash of coconut milk), and the cheese was unexciting. The second curry was almond based and included corn, green beans, and peas. It was quite good, and managed to disguise the fact that it included cinnamon, which was revealed by the lingering aftertaste. The third curry was a smashing success. It was spinach-based, with roasted corn and bits of fresh tomatoes. It was tangy without being overboard, and its flavors were unlike anything I've experienced in an Indian meal. The fourth was a black lentil dish, which carefully walked the fine line between subtle and dull.

The raita was perfect, and indeed helped clean my palette between the dishes. The salad, on the other hand, wasn't too great. It ranged from a brown spot on the tomato (the piece right on top!) to wilted leaves at the bottom. It did not feel freshly assembled. The service was great (if you like frequent visits from your waiter), and the ambiance was nice, although I'm sure evenings are a little calmer.

Charging $21 for this platter is a little excessive, no?
With tax and tip I ended up spending another $9, which brought my meal to a grand total of $21 instead of..... $28 (excluding tip). So, was it worth it? The awesome samosas didn't fully compensate for the mediocre and overpriced main dish. I could have probably saved myself the hassle of the groupon and gone for the buffet, assuming it offers enough vegetarian options.

You Say Indian Chef, I Say Indian Chief

Lunch Fit for an Indian (Chief)

Here in Washington, classes, projects, reading, and sleep are already vying for my time. One class requires frequent visits to the local museums and another requires sketching building interiors. Add a grumbling stomach to the mix, and voila! Grab lunch at the museum, sketch in the cafeteria, and then go upstairs and investigate.

I hatched this brilliant plan after visiting my 3rd museum of the day, and right before hitting up the National Museum of the American Indian. Although I'd packed lunch, this was a good opportunity to finally taste their delicious food.

The cafe has different counters, each representing a different region of indigenous people. I decided to pass on the $12 main course (not hard, considering they were offering mainly buffalo in different forms), and try two side dishes: wild rice with watercress and annatto spiced yucca salad.

Both were quite good. The rice had carrots, pine nuts, pumpkin seeds, watercress greens, and (for a tangy surprise) craisins. Although I'm not usually one to eat rice sans lentils, I enjoyed the mixture of flavors and colors. The salad was the good kind of chewy - not soggy, but rather a mouthful of flavors and textures. The yucca was well-seasoned (albeit a bit oily). I've always found this vegetable challenging, due to its dense and starchy nature, but this salad was punctuated by the crunchy and juicy chayote (I must admit, eating something I couldn't identify was mildly exhilarating). The corn added another layer of flavor (and starch), as did the green onions. The menu promised cashews and queso blanco, but I couldn't discern either of these.

Unless I win the lotto (and make enough to pay back my student loans), I wouldn't necessarily go out of my way to eat at NMAI, but the cafe does offer a quick and interesting bite, and the menu changes with the seasons. It's worth checking out, if only to be inspired by the interesting menu (or you've got a whole lot of buffalo in your freezer that you're not sure how to prepare).

Update: I will soon be a Smithsonian volunteer; my badge will give me a 20% discount at all Smithsonian cafes!!

In a Hurry? Have Some Curry (or Dahl)

Date: August 8, 2011
Name: Ichikidana
Address: 4 HaEshkol, Mahane Yehuda market, Jerusalem

The Quartet's mid-day shuk excursion took an unexpected twist when R and D decided that it mustn't end without a visit to Ichikidana. The challenges were many: We had to convince M that 25 minutes would be enough time to eat and not get a parking ticket, we had to convince N that Indian food would be good, we had to convince the waiter (telepathy) to not take his time, and we had to convince the parking police (good thoughts) to grant Sir Lancelot a few grace minutes.

Ichikidana has been in the shuk for a few years and is the only place in Jerusalem that serves simple, fairly priced Indian food. The place is small, and has about 4 tables inside, and another 2 on the porch. We ordered the largest sized platter and a lot of cold water - both arrived promptly. The platter contained an assortment of cooked vegetable dishes, dahl, cheese, and chutneys, with a healthy dose of rice and bread.

We all agreed that the food was better than we remembered. The rice was well seasoned, and the chutneys were zesty and delicious. When it came to the cooked dishes, our opinions differed: the eggplant was a little sweet, but had good, subtle flavor. The reviews on the yams ranged from OK to great, and the potatoes were infused with coriander and (too?) spicy. The cabbage was cooked with mustard seeds, but had a slightly bitter aftertaste. The dahl, on the other hand, was too bland, and the cheese was much closer to labaneh than ghee.

The platter was perfect for 4 not-so-hungry women with time only for a quick meal. Otherwise, it would probably be satisfactory as a meal for 2-3 people. Bottom line, we wouldn't make a special effort to return to Ichikidana, but if we were in the mood for Indian food and happened to be in the area, we would happily stop by.

Hopefully, M and N have seen the light, and will join future culinary endeavors - and possibly be guest bloggers!

I'm (Eating Paneer) on a Boat

Family. Can't escape it, can't avoid it. Even more so when your family holds reunions aboard a cruise ship. There is a long list of things I'd prefer over confinement to a small space and non-stop kitschy, mediocre activities, all while the floor rocks to and fro. But my emboldened family wasn't going to let my fear of boats stop them, and we embarked on a 3-night cruise to the Bahamas.

Others have written about the wonders and glory of cruises; this post will focus on the culinary side of things. We'd taken the exact same cruise in the past, and everything was strangely comfortably familiar. Less getting lost (stateroom staircase connects floors 1-13, cross to dining room and lounges on floor 4), less wondering what's happening (ongoing buffet, plenty of mediocre activities and games), less worrying about finding each other (meet at meals, do your own thing in between).

Yet sitting down for dinner the first night, my heart leaped with joy: Indian food for dinner! The menu featured Paneer Makhani, with rice and raita. The menu promised pappadams, but these did not materialize (yet). The curried sauce was quite good, but the paneer was cruise-quality (read: raw tofu?), and the raita was lovely.

The problem began on the second night. The menu featured a curry, which ended up being strangely identical to the first night, except that potatoes displaced the paneer and the pappadams actually showed up. The third night offered Kaju Paneer Dhansak, which was essentially the first night's dinner, plus a few chunks of pineapple in the curry.

Now, a quiz. Can you identify which dinner was served on which night? All correct answers will be entered into a drawing; one will be selected for the grand prize - an invitation to be a guest blogger and review an Indian restaurant of one's choosing. Good luck!!

Maharaja

Date: May 23, 2010
Name: Maharaja, Ramle
Address: 87 Herzl St., Ramle

Ramle is an up and coming city in Israel. It's most known for the Ramle-Lod market, a traveling clothing market with unattractive, yet cheap, clothing. Its association with Lod also confers upon it all the glory of the Ben Gurion Airport. Soon, it'll be the place to live - but only we know this. Luckily, our blog has few, or no, readers (if you laughed, please send us an email)

Rumor has it that Ramle has some of Israel's best Indian food, due to the large Indian community there, primarily from Kochin. Thus, joined by M, we set out to discover for ourselves the magic that is Ramle.

We parked the car in what appeared to be an abandoned lot right across the street from downtown. Nearby was a functioning mosque, and we heard the muezzin calling to prayer. We felt called to Indian food, so after a quick picture, we moved along and found the restaurant. Visiting a new city, hearing the local sounds, and the dusk would have amounted to a romantic evening if we'd been anywhere else.

Maharaja is a 2-part business: the storefront has a small bakery and grocery store, stocked full of Indian and eastern products. The back sports a restaurant, in a dark, dingy room whose decor appeared to be left-over from the 1980s. We noted approvingly that our co-diners were mainly real, authentic Indians, and settled into a booth. We ordered a variety of dishes (our eyes were definitely larger than our stomachs), and meanwhile sipped mango lassi.

Our food arrived in a timely fashion, and a variety of colorful dishes filled the table. The samosas were delicious, and the chutneys were right on. The tempura platter featured a variety of battered and fried vegetables, and was beyond delectable. The other dishes were a little less exciting, although in D's opinion, anything consumed in half-darkness can't taste good (except when hiking). At the evening's end, R bought a little box of desserts made with rose water, which were a little too sweet but helped her make it through the night shift (it's not what you're thinking - she writes subtitles).

The prices were fine and the quantities were ample. The food itself wasn't enough of a lure to return to Ramle, although perhaps if Maharaja were closer to Jerusalem, we'd stop by for another round.

Satiated, we left the restaurant and were thrilled to find Rotkapchen loyally waiting for us, unstolen. The drive home was punctuated with an impromptu tour of the news offices, studio, and subtitles office (woohoo!)

The search for awesome Indian food continues... Stay posted!

Subkuch Milega

Date: May 17, 2010 (before Shavuot)
Name: Subkuch Milega
Address: 22 Hamashbir st, (Florentine) Tel Aviv

When we adventure, we adventure. When we go hiking, we take a map but when we have urban adventures, things are a little more spontaneous.

We started our day in the Herzeliya Marina, where we experienced two amazing forces intersecting: Couchsurfers' generosity and the beauty of sailing.
After basking in the awesomeness of sailing (and the sun), we headed to Tel Aviv to continue the adventure. A short and productive visit to the flea market and it was time for dinner.

Do you have the address? Um... Let's ask those people. Maybe it's over here. No, over there. Excuse me, do you know where... I think it's really far! Are you sure you want to walk all the way there? Maybe we can find the address in a phone book... Didn't they replace the phone book with Google?!?

Finally, we made it!

Subkuch Milega tries to replicate the experience of an Indian guesthouse in Tel Aviv. It's located in the Florentine neighborhood which hosts many shanty Israelis who long for the mother-ship, India. The upper floors are a hostel, and the restaurant occupies the first floor and courtyard.

We chose to sit outside, where there were low tables and many battered, colorful mattresses and cushions. The walls had a number of authentic art pieces.

Per our waitress' suggestion, we ordered a platter with a few different dishes. And we waited. And waited. And waited. The chef must have hopped on over to the subcontinent to pick up some ingredients, because it took about 45 minutes until our food arrived. Luckily, we came across a shesh-besh board (backgammon) and kept ourselves entertained (read: confused, due to the non-traditional game pieces and die). Cookie Goddess proved... you never know when you might need a Scrabble letter (or two).

Our food finally arrived and we dug in. Dipping naan in sauces, tasting the lentils... But we slowly realized that culinary journalism has its challenges. In addition to the long wait, we found ourselves facing mediocre food, lacking exciting flavors and textures. Tepid at best, the food was nothing to write home (or a blog) about. Plus, it was expensive, priced quite high for an Israeli meal, let alone an Indian one.

Not all was lost. We began the day as guests aboard a Couchsurfer's yacht, and ended the day in Couchsurfing spirit, by giving advice to travelers. During our meal, we overheard (ok, eavesdropped) an Anglo girl talking to two Israeli men. She was asking about sites to see, places to visit, and Jerusalem. Once the Israeli men left, we turned around and offered our two cents. As die-hard Jerusalemites, we had plenty of advice and ideas of how she should spend her time in our cool (and holy) city. We parted ways, but not before writing out a list of places, phone numbers and even a hand-drawn map or two.

Despite the Indian meal being the low-point in our day, we overcame the extreme difficulties and managed to enjoy our adventures on sea and land. One more place checked off the list.

Journalistic Delinquency

A year has passed, and plenty of good food has been consumed around the globe -- not in DC (Cookie Goddess).
In honor of the reunification of your favorite culinary blogging team, we deliver a four course blog entry, featuring the best of last year's Indian deliciousness.

Besides reporting on past culinary adventures, these entries are an homage to those special Israeli-Indian eateries that have since passed: Gandhi, formerly on Aza Street in Jerusalem and Almora in Even Sapir (a moshav near Jerusalem).

These entries pose a significant challenge to the aging bloggers; three out of the four meals featured were consumed over a year ago. We've learned our lesson and will try to be more timely in the future.

There are already a few adventures on the horizon, which will be promptly covered by yours truly. When we part ways at the summer's end, we hope to continue updating the blog, each from her own corner of the world.